Straight Skirt Done!

There’s still a bit of work I need to do on it. Namely fixing the front darts. I had intended to lower the back darts, but in my “hoarder’s marathon” induced haze I did the font darts… 


I’m just “done” sewing it at the moment. The fabric is lighter than I thought I was going to get, but it was on clearance, and has a really neat gold thread woven through it. It doesn’t show up very well in the photos, but it appears as a subtle sheen instead.  The fabric is a stretch fabric, not a four way though. It was interesting to sew, but not awful. I just had to be careful not to try and tug it through the machine. I also used hem lace for the first time, which I adore! It’s so easy and looks so much more professional than a lot of the stuff I’ve been doing. Check out my back vent too! This is the second one I’ve sewed, the first one turned out awful, but this one turned out much better! 


 I’m thinking about making a sorbetto top with some Lisette poplin I picked up recently. It goes with the color palette, a very light yellow floral. I’d like to try another patter, but it’s hard to shake off your tried and true ones when you don’t want to scrap some nice fabric. We’ll see how it goes! 

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Straight Skirt

I’ve picked the first piece for my wardrobe challenge! It’s a super versatile straight skirt. You already saw my wearable muslin for this skirt. I’m going to make the darts a bit longer, and the skirt a bit shorter. I hope to get this done within the next few days. 

Scrap Killing

Everyone that sews has scraps. Finding creative and resourceful ways to kill those scraps is one of my favorite things. Today I’m going to make Bias tape, using the continuous method. It saves so much time, because you don’t have to piece together all your tape like in other methods. In fact two small seams is all the sewing you’ll be doing! 

Supplies

  • Bias Tape Maker (1/2 inch version)
  • Scrap Fabric
  • Iron and Ironing Board
  • Starch (helps the tape keep it’s shape.)*
  • Ruler
  • Shears
  • Marking instrument (I’m using an air dissolving ink pen, but you could use chalk or pencil)
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine
  • *optional

 

1.

Iron your scrap and figure out how big of a square you can cut from it. It needs to be a perfect square though, as in equal on all sides. I’m using a 12 x 12 inch square here, which produces a good amount of bias tape. Be sure to remove the selvage! If you leave it on, your bias tape will distort really wonky once washed. That’s a pretty standard rule when sewing anything really.

2. Fold in half to form a triangle and press. This Forms your cutting line.Go ahead and cut your fabric. 

3. Turn one piece of fabric until it looks like this.Stitch along the center line, right sides together. Trim seam allowance and press open.  Mark 1 inch sections a long the whole piece. 

4.This is where it can get a bit tricky. Offset the lines so you have one of the sections connecting to nothing, while all the other fabrics line up. It might be easier to press the seam allowance out when matching. Sew right sides together. 

Here’s the seam allowance pressed back.

See how it’s offset. this is what makes the loop continuous. Otherwise you’d just be cutting out 12 individual loops

Pin it as you go along matching. 

It should look something like this. 

sew being careful not to catch any other fabric in the seam. It’s hard because it’s a weird angle to sew something together. Go slow!

Make sure to Trim the seam allowances really close! It helps when ironing to not have extra bulk!

5. Starting from  one of the offset edges, start cutting! 

6. Now the easy part. Feed the tape into your bias tape maker. Use a pin if it’s not going through very smoothly.  Iron the tape and pull the bias tape maker at the same time. Use some starch if it’s being finicky in staying pressed. This usually happens at the seam allowances.

TADA! Homemade bias tape. This batch is destined to line a sorbetto top! 

I roll it up immediately unto cardboard scraps after I’ve finished so it keeps it shape. 

I hope the tutorial was clear! Let me know what you think! 

Wardrobe Challenge

I’m currently in the planning stages of a mini wardrobe challenge. My new years resolution involves trying my  hardest not to purchase any ready to wear clothing in the year 2012. So I figured I’d do a wardrobe challenge much in the style that Colette Patterns hosts twice a year. I’ve been pinning inspiration like a mad man for a few weeks, and have narrowed it down to the images that really struck me, and clothing I’ve been obsessing over. 

As far as colors go, I’m thinking lots of lemony yellows, pale corals, creams, and

small

accents in a light grey blue. 

As Far as my neutrals, black will always be my favorite. I’m also feeling Large florals and oversize graphic prints. The third dress looks alot like the macaroon pattern, with a little ribbon trim. I also need to make a swim suit, which terrifies me. I love the retro high waist bottoms look. I have a feeling I might get stuck drafting that one myself though. That might end up being a huge disaster, but is totally worth a shot in my opinion. 

The Final palette ended up looking like this. 

I really dig it. Bad news is that I have like no stash fabric this matches. Not buying clothing for a year is a good an excuse as any to buy more fabric though right? Check back soon for the pattern selection once I get them picked out. 

Real Talk : Croquis

I love the colette sewing handbook. First let me point out that it’s amazingly well thought out and quite beautiful. Also it has awesome tips on everything from fabric selection, to fit, to making a personal croquis. Now now, if you’re like me you’re thinking of croquettes, I promise the two are completely unrelated. 

Croquis :

 A croquis drawing is quick and sketchy drawing of a live model. Croquis drawings are usually made in a few minutes, after which the model changes pose and another croquis is drawn. Esp. used in women’s fashion designing. 

You can find hundreds of croquis templates online for free. The only downside is that often the proportions are very skewed and elongated.

 *Crouqis Above from  designersnexus

*Crouqis Above from  designersnexus

 

 I know that for me, and almost every other woman alive, that’s not going to match up very well for my body. I sew primary for myself, so having something that’s more “me” would be ideal. They’re fairly easy to make. You take a photo of yourself in tight fitting clothing, or if you’re braver in your birthday suit. Print it out and set those tracing skills to work. You can now sketch out patterns or ideas for sewing projects and see how they would work with your body shape. 

The hard part is being honest with yourself. I know that my body isn’t really conventional. My torso is as long as my legs, my arms are on the shorter side, and if ever they’re were a good example for stocky I’m it. But knowing these things makes sewing your own wardrobe all the much easier. Sure I’m shaped like a brick, but now at least I can compensate for that. Being honest is the first step in great fitting ladies. 

Without further ado, here’s my own personal croquis. 

It’s not so bad I suppose. Plus it gives me a legit reason to play paper dolls as an adult.